Sunday, 6 August 2017

getting there/ chegando na Mongólia

One could ask me: why Mongolia, of all wild environments of this world? The answer is not so simple, but being a veterinarian, horse lover, endurance rider and researcher at the university where I work, south of Brazil (plus, being a gaucha and love my culture, which is a horse culture), all of this could help. But let´s return back to 1999, when I was doing my PhD in Hannover, Germany, and still learning German. A friend gave me an issue of Stern magazine (which I still have), with a long report about the Przewalski wild horses and the program of reintroducing them to their natural environment. This struck me as lightining, and since then I have been reading everything I could, watching all documentaries and movies I could, about not only the Przewalski, but Mongolia, its history, costumes, and country in general. And the dream was born, that one day I would be there. Was not easy and involved a lot of planning, mainly financial but also logistics. Thanks to my husband Sergio, I would not go alone. Then in 2016, I gave him the ultimatum: we must go! I had miles I traded for the return flights from Brazil to Europe, and from Amsterdam to Frankfurt. I have decided for this route, because for us brazilians it would need no visa, for Mongolia does not demand it for short stays, and also most of European countries. And plus, I discovered a flight from Berlin to Ulaan Baatar from MIAT Mongolian Airlines. There is one from Frankfurt now, but when I bought it was still not available. However, we did not have an agency or schedule there, and it is not something I would recommend to go the first time by yourself. I have a wonderful guidebook from Bradt (one big coincidence is that our local guide happened to be son of a woman who gave some advise to the guide´s author! It is on the acknowledgements), where I wrote to some, and got an answer from Discover Mongolia. From brazil, I found two agencies, but I think they did not believe I was focused in doing this trip, I got no answer from both. One day...I was browsing the internet, and Googled the words "horse riding" and "Mongolia", and in first place was my agency: Horseback Mongolia. They answered promptly and had a lot of suggestions, and, also important, their price was reasonable. So we started exchanging emails, and we stayed with the tour we liked best, plus four extra days to fit our flight schedule. My mandatory items were: riding horses, the Naadam, and of course seeing the Przewalski. We got it all. Plus four days in Amsterdam to avoid much jet lag, and one day in Lisbon, but this was due to the flight deal of the mileage program. So this was your planning, and in the next days I will be telling the rest of the story...
 At Frankfurt Airport, preparing to go (Flights depart from Terminal 2, so either you take the Skyline or ask the hotel shuttle to leave you there)
 IN Berlin Tegel Airport, waiting for the flight. It seemed that everyone was flying to Mongolia...
 We were a bit anxious about the flight and services of MIAT, but it was the best flight of the trip!


 Obviously, the plane had to be named after Genghis Khan. Below, the full moon accompanied us during the flight.

Em Português
Vocês podem me perguntar: porque ir para a Mongolia, entre muitos lugares selvagens do mundo? a resposta não é tão simples, mas para uma veterinária, amante dos cavalos, endurista equestre e pesquisadora na universidade, além é claro de ser gaúcha e amar esta cultura, tudo isto já ajuda não é? Em 1999, quando eu fazia meu doutorado em Hannover, e ainda aprendia alemão, um dia me caiu nas mãos uma revista Stern com uma reportagem sobre os cavalos Przewalski e o programa de reintrodução no seu habitat natural. Ler isso foi como um clarão, e desde então leio e assisto tudo que posso não só sobre os Przewalski, mas sobre a Mongolia, sua história, costumes, e o país em geral. Assim nasceu o sonho que um dia eu iria ver isso in loco.  Não foi fácil, e envolveu muito planejamento, principalmente financeiro e logístico. graças a meu marido, Sérgio, eu não estava sozinha. Então, em 2016, eu falei a ele: ou vai ou racha!  Como eu tinha bastante milhas, consegui trocar pelas passagens para a Europa (ida via Amsterdam e volta Lisboa), mais a passagem de Amsterdam a Frankfurt.  Decidi por esta rota, pois para nós, brasileiros, não é necessário visto para estadas curtas, e nem a Europa. Além disso, descobri um vôo de Berlin a Ulaan Baatar da MIAT Mongolian Airlines. Agora há um a partir de Frankfurt , que não havia quando comprei a passagem. Porém, ainda não tínhamos uma agência ou plano lá na Mongólia. Consultando meu guia da Bradt (uma grande coincidência, é que nosso guia mongol era filho de uma mulher que foi consultora da autora do guia!), escrevi para algumas, e recebi resposta da Discover Mongolia. Do Brasil foi uma decepção, pois de duas agências que achei, nenhuma acreditou (acho eu) que eu estava mesmo decidida a ir, e não me mandaram nenhum plano. Porém, um dia...estava navegando no Google, e digitei as palavreas "horse riding" e "Mongolia", e logo apareceu a que veio a ser minha agência: Horseback Mongolia. Responderam em seguida, com várias sugestões, e além disso o preço era bom. Assim, trocamos emails, e ficamos com o tour que mais nos agradou, mais quatro dias extras para encaixar nos dias do nosso vôo. Meus itens obrigatórios eram: andar a cavalo, assistir ao Naadam, e, lógico, ver os Przewalski. Conseguimos tudo isso, mais quatro dias em Amsterdam para evitar o  jet lag, e na volta um dia em Lisboa. Assim foi nosso planejamento, e nos próximos dias vou contando mais...

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